Tanzania’s government wants big tourism money. Herders don’t want to lose their livelihoods.

The village of Ololosokwan sits in the Great Rift Valley adjacent to Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, surrounded by thousands of square miles of savanna—grasslands spilling across low hills dotted with mimosa, jacaranda and umbrella-shaped acacia trees. The settlement consists of a few unpaved streets where sheep, goats, chickens and emaciated cows wander untended. A handful of shops in single-story, cinder-block buildings, painted in the garish red, orange and green corporate colors of cellphone providers, serve its 6,500 or so residents. On the outskirts, bomas—temporary enclosures constructed from branches that contain thatched-roof dwellings—provide shelter for families and their livestock.

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